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Market Vogue Vol.4: West Market (Da Cai Shi) — The Glamorous Turn of a Fallen Noble: Southern Taiwan’s First Market, a Century of Memory Restored for 135 Million TWD

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Market Vogue Vol.4

【3 Door Hotel Online Magazine】Market Flâneur

【West Market / Da Cai Shi】The Glamorous Turn of a Fallen Noble: Southern Taiwan’s First Market, a Century of Memory Restored for 135 Million TWD

From the “Ginza-dori” of the Japanese Colonial Era to Today’s “Most Beautiful Historical Market”—A Century-Spanning Time Travel.

Editor-in-Chief / An Editor Enamored with Tainan’s Alleys

Prologue: The Capsule of Time

If you don’t enter the market, you won’t know the depth of Tainan’s urban memory.

Today, as you stroll to the West Central District, it’s hard not to be drawn to that fresh and bright white historical building. It features an elegant French roof, delicate floral mud sculptures, and modern air conditioning and decor inside. It is hailed as the “Most Beautiful Historical Market in Tainan.” This is West Market, commonly known as Da Cai Shi.

Restored facade of West Market

But the glamorous rebirth of this “fallen noble” is far from just a simple coat of paint. It cost over 135 million TWD in total renovation fees, undergoing nearly twenty years of planning and restoration before recently returning to the public eye.

The question is: beneath its clean, fashionable new clothes, how much historical clamor and silence does it carry? Is its soul part of the Japanese-era “Ginza-dori,” or the modern “cultural and creative cluster”?

The century-old journey of West Market encapsulates the complete history of Tainan’s urban development. Its rebirth is not just the restoration of a building, but the “continuation and activation” of urban memory. It is a capsule of time, waiting for us to initiate this century-spanning travel.

Act I: The Prolific Past

The history of West Market must begin with the “modern market management policy” promoted by the colonial government during the Japanese period. This was not a market that formed naturally among commoners; from its birth, it was destined to carry the aura and ambition of being “Number One in Southern Taiwan.”

Historical photo of West Market in 1905
Historical photo of the Ginza-dori era

1.1 Pioneer of Modern Markets

West Market was initially completed in 1905 (Meiji 38). At that time, it was called “Tainan Market” or “Tainan Grand Market.” It was the first official public market in Tainan. Built on a vast area of former fish ponds near the city walls, it became the most significant modern market pioneer in Southern Taiwan.

Although the original wooden structure collapsed during a typhoon, the government immediately began reconstruction in 1912. This rebuilding was not only swift but also showcased advanced resolve: the market utilized reinforced concrete, a technological pioneer of the time, forming the L-shaped main building we see today.

In terms of function, West Market far exceeded a typical vegetable market. It not only housed wholesale stalls for fish, meat, and produce but was also equipped with highly modern cold storage. More importantly, the market featured snack sections and ice shops, making it a center for citizens to rest and socialize.

1.2 Ornate Architecture and Surrounding Expansion

West Market signage sculpture
Abalone medal decoration
Copper dome details
Keystone architectural detail
Floral decorations

The second-generation building of West Market was one of the most ornate market buildings in Taiwan. Its style perfectly blended Western classical elements from the Japanese era.

  • Structure and Style: Reinforced concrete with Western-style floral mud sculptures on the main entrance, and a Mansard roof with dormer windows.
  • Commercial Status: As commercial activity boomed, the surroundings expanded. The most famous was the Asakusa Bazaar built in 1933 around the central courtyard fountain. Along with the nearby “Ginza-dori” (now Zhongzheng Road), it formed Tainan’s busiest commercial center.

At that time, West Market was the economic and fashion heart of Southern Taiwan.

History of Ximen Cloth Market

🎙 Market Vogue Podcast

EP4|Can You Believe It? This Market Cost 135 Million! The Shocking Rebirth of a Noble

Duration: 7m 32s | A moving dialogue between history-buff AJ and foodie An 🏛️

Act II: Silence and Transition

After reaching its peak, the cold pace of urban change often follows. This fallen noble, West Market, also welcomed a long period of silence after the war.

2.1 Impact of the Era and Decline

In the early post-war period, the market roof was extended to become the famous “Blue Sky Ballroom.” However, as urban structures shifted, impacts followed:

  • Key Blow 1: The Big Fire of 1966, which heavily damaged the market.
  • Key Blow 2: The 1990s Hai’an Road Underground Project, which impacted the Zhongzheng district.
  • Final Blow: The relocation of the wholesale market stripped West Market of its “food wholesale center” function.

In 2003, West Market was officially designated a Tainan City Monument, laying the foundation for its restoration.

2.2 Ximen Cloth Market: The Lamp That Never Faded

While the main body of West Market was silent for decades, one area never lost its vitality—the adjacent Ximen Cloth Market.

Asakusa Bazaar historical view
Vendors inside Ximen Cloth Market

Post-war, the Asakusa Bazaar transitioned into a fabric hub known as “Ximen Cloth Market.” For decades, it remained an important textile center in Southern Taiwan. In the 20-year restoration plan, the government decided not to demolish the traditional passages of the cloth market. This decision represents the highest concept of cultural preservation: not just restoring the architectural skeleton, but allowing “cultural memory” and “daily life” to flourish together.

Act III: Glamorous Rebirth

Restored interior of West Market

After nearly 20 years of planning and a budget of over 135 million TWD, West Market has completed its renovation. This rebirth is an ultimate example of balancing historical preservation and modern commercial operation.

3.1 Reproducing Century-Old Luxury and Modern Function

Night market outside West Market
West Market night facade

The restored West Market achieves three key rebirths:

  • Reproducing Century-Old Ornate Details: Successfully restored the French roof (Mansard roof), dormer windows, and round gables.
  • Modern Experience: New decor, comfortable air conditioning, enhanced ventilation, clean public toilets, and mobile payment/delivery platform integration.
  • Market Performances: A sunken plaza design for weekend markets, musical performances, and street performers.

Mansard roof details

3.2 Diverse Business: Culture, Food, and Cloth Market Co-Prosperity

Restored West Market has transformed into a diverse cultural and creative cluster with over 100 stalls.

🍰【Focus: Tainan’s Heritage and Trend in Sweetness】
  • Legacy Flavors: Yong He Xiang Pastries (80 years), featuring Red Turtle Cakes and Pon-Pia.
  • Giant Topic: Bai Zhen Bread, famous for its hand-sized giant cream puffs.
  • Taste Explosion: BB.BABE Korean Bread, known for its “filling waterfall.”
  • Trendy Drinks: Logout Tea, focusing on Taiwan high mountain tea with cheese or whiskey.
  • Local Exclusive: Sen Shan Fruit Room, selling Japanese-style candied fruit sticks.

Interior view of modern West Market

The market introduces new-generation design brands and curated goods. Importantly, the Ximen Cloth Market passage remains, allowing visitors to feel the vitality of traditional textile trade.

Common Questions Q&A

Q|Where is West Market and when did it reopen?

It is located near Section 2, Ximen Road and You’ai Street, about a 15-minute walk from 3 Door Hotel. It reopened recently after a 135 million TWD restoration.

Q|Why is it called “Da Cai Shi”?

Founded in 1905, it was Tainan’s first official market and the largest in the south, hence “Grand Vegetable Market.”

Q|What are the must-visit shops?

Yong He Xiang Pastries, Bai Zhen Bread (giant puffs), BB.BABE, Logout Tea, and Sen Shan Fruit Room. The Cloth Market is also a must-visit.

Conclusion: Time Flows, Memory Remains

The century-long journey of West Market is a history book of Tainan’s development.

From being the largest food wholesale center in Southern Taiwan to becoming the “Most Beautiful Historical Market,” it witnesses how Tainan maintains its cultural texture amidst modernization. The reopening of West Market connects Guohua St, Zhengxing St, and Hai’an Rd into an essential “Golden Life Circle.”

Is your next Tainan trip ready for a century-spanning date at West Market?

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